I’d seen this piece of the Cornish Coast from out at sea on a boat trip out of Padstow and have had it in my to-do list for a number of years.

As a change, rather than add to the traffic chaos and waste a hour trying to find a parking spot, I took the train from St. Erth. This not just a regular train journey, it hugs the coast and is one of the most scenic routes in the country,

It was another sunny day and St Ives was once again a pleasant place hardly any traffic and not too many people – I just have to remember in the future that I shouldn’t visit in the summer.

The other highlight was lunch On my last visit I had an excellent Sunday Lunch in the Sloop Inn, so I thought I would give it another go.

I had a mixed shellfish salad which was excellent and included the best Mussels I have ever tasted.

This is a National Trust property, so free to enter for members. The property comprises extensive gardens and a house – I omitted the house on this visit and just walked around the gardens and grounds. It was a great place to break up the journey from home to Cornwall.

It wasn’t half as bad as I remembered it – I don’t know if the town’s had a face lift or it was just because it was a gloriously sunny day – but it was actually quite pleasant walking through the town. Like many towns it bears the massive scar of the abandoned Woolworth store.

Next it was time to go do what I had planned for this day – beach time.

Now I have lost count of the number of times I have visited Cornwall, but as far as I can recall, this was my first visit to Crantock. What a great beach – it sits on a estuary and is surrounded by sand dunes – it is formed of fine white sand – with plenty exposed even at high tide. The weather was perfect for a long stay – a cloudless sky, but because it is quite late in the year – the sun doesn’t get too hot to bear.

Then I queued for ages through the roadworks on the M5 finally arriving at my base for the week at Crantock Beach at 6 pm.

Now it may not be my choice of decor, but the view is perfect.

First a walk along the cliffs from Levant to Sennan on the North Cornish Coast – No sun but still breathtaking views.

Then lunch in the Old Success Inn at Senean cove followed by a walk along the beach.

As usual, I found somewhere to visit on the way. This time it was Montacute House, which is also home to a the National Portrait Gallery.

Also worth mentioning was breakfast, which was at the Little Chef in Popham.

This was the branch of the restaurant that received the Heston Bblumenthal treatment last year in a bid to revamp the image. The whole experience was a great improvement, from the waiting area to the food – definitely a change for the better.

Last day and an early start 7:30, arrived at Padstow ready for some breakfast at 9:00. I really fancied a Bacon sandwich but despite the endless bakeries – the only thing on offer was Cornish Pasties. In fact the only place that was open and offering breakfast, was Rick Stein’s cafe. With kippers on the menu, all thought of bacon sandwiches was gone – The kipper may look ugly, but it was mighty tasty!

As I reached the apogee of my final walk along the coastal path the rain started and I was finally able to check the effectiveness of all the new rainproof gear I had bought with me!

My final day in Cornwall ended with some excellent Haddock and Chips from Rick Stein’s Fish and Chip shop.

Aghh!, St Ives! After my last visit a few years ago, I really didn’t think I’d come back. It unfortunately suffers from it’s popularity and as a results the streets are packed with people and the roads jammed with cars – it’s really not an enjoyable experience,

As it is out of season, I thought I’d give it another chance; What a contrast. In the summer, the picture above would be full of people squeezed onto the narrow pavements and cars, nose to tail in the road.

Next was a visit to Porthleven. This was a place I’d passed many times but it never looked like much so I’d always avoided it. Well I hadn’t been missing much – it pretty boring although the beach looks nice.

Day two and the weather is very summery. Parked at Kynance and walked along the coastal path to the Lizard. Along the way met up with some wild and friendly Shetland Ponies.

In the Lizard, I found the site of Ann’s Famous Pasties which operates out of a shed in her back garden. I’d seen reviews of these pasties in the national press and have to say, they do live up to the hype – very nice. The sign writer was obviously unsure how to spell her name so thought he’d try both ways!

Finished the day off with a couple of hours sitting on the beach at Kynance Cove

This is a route I haven taken in a while (around 35 years since I last did it). Last time I walked down the valley, it was not long after the floods and it was still looking pretty scared – now it back to it’s former glory.

The one change, is that some new age hippies have adopted part of the route next to the ancient stone carvings.

In recent years I have either turned back at the end of the Valley, or turned right towards Boscastle. Today I chose to turn left, towards Bossiney Haven.

This is a bit of a secret beach, inaccessible by road and it completely disappears at high tide.

In the past it was enjoyed by the many people using the nearby Ocean Cove caravan park – Unfortunately, that park has been replaced with holiday homes that are used by the few and stand empty much of the time.

I arrived at Boscastle on the day the flood defense scheme was officially opened – 4 years after the devastating floods. I’ve continued to visit the village since the flood and up to now it has still looked scared; The scaring has mostly healed and south of the lower Bridge – the location is a nice as ever. North however, I can’t help thinking that Boscastle has lost something.

Firstly the new Bridge; I understand why a new bridge was needed and I understand the thinking behind replacing it with with something that is obviously new, but, sorry, I don’t like it. It would have been much better to have used modern technology to span the widened river, but clad in stone so it looked much more like the bridge it replaced.

Next the Pixie Cottage. This was a quaint little cottage and before the floods, a gift shop. The replacement looks more like a chapel, with the new window at the gable end and the low undulating roof has been replaced with a high and pretty characterless effort. It’s also now a rather boring Tea Room.

But further back, is where the real heart has been ripped out and the villain – the National Trust. I am a supporter of the Trust but, I think they have lost the plot when it comes to Boscastle.

Their presence used to be confined to a quaint little shack, set back from the river, selling the usual gifts and guides. In the new Boscastle, they have gone for total domination instead. We now have a rather unspectacular National Trust Visitor Centre, A large National Trust Shop, and they are in the process of converting the last gift shop into a National Trust Cafe. The only outlet of any merit that remains is the Museum of Witchcraft (which speaks volumes about the rest of the harbour).

Fortunately further back things get better and it’s great that the Cobweb Inn remains pretty much unchanged, selling great beer and serving good food. Their Crab Sandwich is always good.

Great Sandy beach situated in part of spectacular north Cornish coast.  The “steps” refer to the rock formations and not to the treacherous steps that form the only access to the beach.  There is no beach at high tide.

It’s a great starting point for walks along the coastal footpath.

Pictures

Facilities

	There is a National Trust car park on the cliffs above the beach.
	Toilets available in the car park.
	Great food available in the National Trust cafe

Rating

Toilets
Beach
Walks
Parking
Overall

The whitest sandy beach in Cornwall – great for sunbathing and swimming.  The beach is a bit of a hike from the car park through sand dunes and the first 50 metres of the beach are very steep – once you get there though, it’s well worth it.  There is a large expanse of sand, even at high tide.

The west, the cliff, is home to the Minack Theatre – worth  visit but in my opinion, a bit of an eyesore.

Next to the car park is the Telegraph Museum  - the main part is cut into the rock face and there is a staircase that takes you to a hidden position high up on the cliff with some commanding views. 

Pictures

Facilities

	There is a large public car park about 200 metres from the beach.
	Toilets available in the car park.
	Basic food available in the beach shops

Rating

Toilets
Beach
Walks
Parking
Overall

Fantastic sandy beach situated between Port Isaac and Tintagel.

There is no beach at high tide so make sure you check the times before you go there.  Access to the beach is via a broad pathway that has been cut into the rock.  The beach is washed clean twice a day by the tide, and has many caves and rock pools to explore.  

There is easy access to the coastal path where you can enjoy spectacular walks to the neighbouring villages. 

Half way up the western cliff, is the Port William Inn from where you will get a commanding view over the beach.

There is a small private car park close to the beach, but the main car park is a bit of a hike, up the hill

Pictures

Facilities

	The main public car park about 500 metres from the beach, there is some limited parking closer to the beach.
	Toilets available near the main car park and at the entrance to the beach.
	Basic food available in the local shops. Good food available in the Port William Inn

Rating

Toilets
Beach
Walks
Parking
Overall

Without doubt, the finest beach in Cornwall.

Washed clean twice a day by the sea – this beach is outstandingly beautiful.  You have to negotiate the steep but easy path to beach but it’s well worth it.  At low tide there is no beach whatsoever and the main path is inaccessible; there is however an alternative path that starts at the back of the beach.

The beach is formed from fine sand and the craggy cliffs are pierced by several caves.  There is access to the costal path, and this includes a spectacular and fairly easy going walk to the tip of the Lizard pennisular.

This is one beach where you absolutely must consult the tide tables before you contemplate a visit.

Pictures

Facilities

	There is a large National Trust car park on the cliffs above the beach.
	Toilets available in the car park and adjacent to the beach
	Basic food available in the beach cafe

Rating

Toilets
Beach
Walks
Parking
Overall